Flannel

Lore & Background

The word's origin is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested, as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales, where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The fabric was called 'Welsh cotton,' and despite its name, it was a coarse woolen material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel. The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century. Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such as Newtown, Montgomeryshire, Hay on Wye, and Llanidloes. The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of carding mills. Flannel became popular in the United States during the Civil War, when it was imported as an inexpensive, sturdy material for soldiers’ basic coats and undershirts. During the 1950s, Irish designer Sybil Connolly designed a 'Red Flannel' skirt using red flannel wool. Originally, flannel was made of fine, short staple wool, but by the 20th century, mixtures of silk and cotton had become common. Flannel plaid shirts became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of the grunge style of bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam.

Reader's Guide

Flannel's significance lies in its long history as a versatile, soft fabric used for clothing and household items. Its production expanded in the 19th century in Welsh towns, linked to the mechanization of carding mills. The fabric gained popularity in the United States during the Civil War as sturdy material for soldiers, and later Hamilton Carhartt's textile plant in Detroit helped establish flannel as a workwear staple for the American middle class. Flannel's legacy includes its role in 1990s grunge fashion, with plaid flannel shirts becoming iconic teen wear. The term 'flannel shirt' is often mistakenly used to refer to any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern, but flannel refers simply to the fabric; not all flannel shirts are plaid and not all plaid shirts are flannel. Various types exist, including flannelette, baby flannel, cotton flannel, and vegetable flannel, each with distinct characteristics. Flannel can be woven in twill or plain weave, often hidden by napping on one or both sides.

Did You Know?

• The word's origin is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested, as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales as early as the 16th century.
• Flannel became popular in the United States during the Civil War, when it was imported as an inexpensive, sturdy material for soldiers’ basic coats and undershirts.
• Flannel plaid shirts became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of the grunge style of bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam.